Olive oil, fresh herbs and vinegar with grilled asparagus

I’ve been trying to do something with the big weed patch that used to be a vegetable garden in a generous-sized plot in my yard near the river. As I’ve been digging weeds, I keep finding clumps of oregano. This aromatic herb must be one of the most tolerant of neglect and sandy soil. And, I guess it doesn’t care one bit about being surrounded by weeds. It’s not only growing, it’s spreading. I’ve been digging each little bunch of oregano up, plopping it into pots and sharing them with friends.

I continue to snip chives and tarragon, plants that are tucked in among the perennial flowers in my garden. I always plant plenty of Italian parsley in the big barrel planter. Last week, all of these herbs went into a vinaigrette. If I’m able to get my basil to grow this year (I’ve planted it in pots rather than the ground this time around), I’ll be adding that to the mix of herbs in this vinaigrette.

Of course, this vinaigrette is wonderful on a salad of fresh greens. But, there are more ways to enjoy this herb-infused oil and vinegar dressing. Spoon it over roasted potatoes or into potato salad. Brush it over pizza dough before adding toppings. Use it to glaze grilled chicken breasts. Or, when you have a bunch of asparagus (or the ends of asparagus spears after making spicy pickled asparagus), grill it and eat it with a drizzle of Fresh Herbs Vinaigrette.

My husband has a grill pan designed for vegetables. I rolled the asparagus ends in some of the vinaigrette before he put them in the pan on the grill. Since the ends had been blanched, they didn’t need much time on the grill. Before serving, I drizzled more vinaigrette over the ends and garnished with shaved Parmesan.

Easy, healthful and delicious. And, a great way to enjoy fresh herbs and fresh asparagus.

Fresh Herbs Vinaigrette

  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • Grated zest of 1 lemon
  • ¼ cup balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar
  • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Whisk fresh lemon juice, grated zest and vinegar together in a 2-cup glass measure. Slowly pour in olive oil as you continue to whisk to form an emulsion. Add garlic and chopped fresh herbs and mix. Store in covered jar in refrigerator. Shake well before serving. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup vinaigrette.

Weekend Eats: Fresh Herbs are lovely in a cheese spread

I know it must be summer when the perennial herbs scattered through my flower garden are ready for snipping. I’ve been getting ready for my “Cooking with Herbs” demonstration at Bemidji’s Natural Choice Farmers Market on Saturday, creating cheese spreads, Greek spinach and bison sliders with fresh sprigs of oregano, thyme, mint and slender spears of chives — all from my own garden.

Last night I served this Herbed Cheese Spread to a small group of friends who were over for wine and small bites. It’s so quick and easy to put together and only gets better with age. I like to mix it up the day before I plan to serve it, then sprinkle the top with chopped roasted and salted almonds or toasted pecans right at the last minute, so they stay nice and crunchy.

When I’m feeling like taking more time to prepare something a little more elegant, I form the cheese mixture into small, bite-sized balls and coat them with the nuts.

This cheese spread allows for your own creativity. I always start with a base of cream cheese and goat cheese. Sometimes I throw in some blue cheese. Finely shredded Parmesan is good, too. Then, just use whatever herbs you have available. Go lightly with the thyme and rosemary, though. They can be a bit overpowering.

Give this a try next time you’re having friends over. And, by the way, a glass of chilled Funf German Riesling was a very refreshing (and inexpensive) companion to the cheese spread.

I’d love to see you at the farmers market on Saturday morning. (June 4th) I’ll be cooking from 11:00 until noon at Bemidji’s Natural Choice Farmers Market in the Union Square Parking Lot, using fresh herbs, meat, eggs, bread and fresh greens all from the farmers at the market.

May there be some Fresh Herbs and Cheese Spread with wine and friends in your weekend.

And, if you’d like to watch me prepare this spread on my 3-minute Lakeland Cooks segment, just click here.

I also served Marinated Roasted Peppers on Crostini last night — another one of my make-ahead summer favorites.

Fresh Herbs and Cheese Spread

  • 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese
  • 1 (4-ounce) log goat cheese
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1 chubby clove garlic, peeled, smashed
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • Fresh herbs of your choice, about 2 tablespoons, or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
  • sprinkle of Hungarian paprika
  • Roasted and salted almonds, chopped, or toasted pecans

In a medium bowl, use electric mixer to beat cream cheese, goat cheese and cayenne until smooth.

On a cutting board, mince garlic with salt. Add fresh herbs and orange zest and continue to mince until very fine. Add a pinch of paprika to the mix.

Scrape herb mixture into the cheese mixture. Stir well to blend.

Spread mixture onto platter. Cover and refrigerate. At serving time, sprinkle top with nuts. Surround with almond crackers. Serve at room temperature.

“Angel Hair” Cocozelle Squash in Wild Rice Crust

Meet cocozelle, a thin-skinned summer squash similar to the common zucchini. It’s covered with light and dark green stripes, making it look much more delicate than zucchini.

I had never heard of cocozelle (I love saying that word. It sounds so romantic.) A couple of days ago, my husband came home from work with a few cocozelles in hand and gently set them on the island in the kitchen. They were from Molly Miron, the editor of the Bemidji Pioneer. She lives on a small farm and every summer has a prolific vegetable garden.

When I mentioned cocozelle to Cheryl Krystosek of Chill Creek Ridge, a farm north of Itasca State Park, she knew exactly what I was talking about. She and her husband, Dale, sell their mostly organic produce at the local farmers market. She told me she has had cocozelle in her garden for at least a few years.

I finally used the cocozelle to make an evening meal. I patted the same wild rice mixture from my last post into individual-serving sized gratin dishes. One batch of the mixture made just enough to form crusts in four dishes. I baked the wild rice crusts for 15 minutes at 350 degrees and then gave them time to cool.

In the meantime, I pulled the turning slicer that I bought two years ago and never used out of the closet.

I had watched the slicer being used at a chef demonstration at the farmers market and thought I definitely needed one myself.

I sliced unpeeled cocozelle into very thin strands that looked like angel hair pasta. I set my squash pasta aside and moved onto the sauce.

If you were at the cooking demonstration I did on Saturday at the Women’s Expo in Bemidji, you watched as I made a simple butter sauce flavored with fresh herbs, white wine, some cream and chicken broth. I used that same sauce to toss with the angel hair cocozelle and added some toasted pine nuts.

The cocozelle and sauce were spooned over the prebaked wild rice crusts and topped with grated Parmesan. Then, I just put them back into the oven long enough for tiny bubbles to appear in the sauce that gathered along the edges of the gratin dishes.

My husband and I made a meal of it. He had a ciabatta roll on the side. Wild Rice Crust filled with Angle Hair Cocozelle Squash would also make a lovely side to grilled chicken, or any kind of meat, really.

Most home cooks don’t own a turning slicer. Just use your sharp chef’s knife to julienne the soft summer squash. Any summer squash would give the same delicious results.

This is truly a dish made of fresh, local ingredients. And, it is proof that wild rice crust is not just for quiche. It is very versatile. If you have another idea for ways to use the wild rice crust, leave a comment and tell us about it.

Added morning of September 2nd, 2010: Do be careful if you use a turning slicer. Don’t put the slicer into a sink full of soapy dishwater and then stick your hand down into the water. My husband says the gouge in the tip of his finger is the size of a 1/8 teaspoon. He’s been known to exaggerate and be a bit dramatic. Unfortunately, the only kind of bandages we have in the house are those that appeal to our grandchildren. Won’t he look cute at the office today with his Shrek and Hello Kitty bandaged finger?

But, still, I do love a man with dishpan hands!

“Angel Hair” Cocozelle Squash in Wild Rice Crust

  • 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 large egg
  • 3 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 2 1/2 cups cooked wild rice
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 to 3 medium cocozelle squash, or any summer squash, julienned
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons butter, divided
  • 1 medium shallot, minced
  • 5 chubby cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/3 cup chicken broth
  • Fresh herbs, minced (I used flat-leaf parsley, basil and delicate fronds from the fennel stems in my garden)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • A generous handful of pine nuts, toasted

Combine Parmesan cheese, 1 egg, 3 tablespoons melted butter and lemon juice in a large mixing bowl. Stir in cooked rice, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Spoon into four lightly greased individual-serving sized gratin dishes or shallow ramekins. Use a spoon to press mixture into bottom and up sides of dishes. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven for 15 minutes. Let cool on wire rack. At this point, crust can be covered tightly and stored in refrigerator.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in skillet. Add shallot and garlic and saute until soft. Add wine, cream and broth. Stir in prepared squash. Simmer very gently for 6 to 8 minutes until squash is al dente. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, stirring until melted. Add fresh herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in pine nuts.

Divide mixture evenly between 2 of the baked crusts. (The other two crusts can be stored in plastic freezer bags in the freezer for up to a month.) Grate fresh Parmesan over the top of each. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven for about 15 minutes, or until sauce bubbles around the edges. Serve hot. Make 2 servings plus 2 extra crusts to use at another time.

Tip from the cook

It’s Greek To Me — Orzo Salad with Chicken

When I lived in Fargo, I used to love going to Santa Lucia restaurant for a big Greek salad. It was a plate filled generously with fresh lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, feta and kalamata olives. The colorful mix was dressed with a nicely seasoned vinaigrette. I could easily make that salad a meal. It’s been several years since I’ve had an opportunity to dine at Sanat Lucia, but I’ve often thought of that delicious salad.

The other day I had cooked chicken in the refrigerator. It was meat remaining from my experiment grill-roasting chicken, one propped on a can of beer, another placed right on the grill rack over a shallow pan of water and lemon juice. I was interested to know how the flavor and juiciness would differ.

My pick is the chicken placed over a pan of liquid and cooked over indirect heat. It really is the juiciest and most flavorful chicken I’ve ever eaten. The rub of spices and olive oil on the skin and under the skin of the chicken certainly helps it along. My husband says it’s just as good as the Greek-style chicken he would sometimes have on our visits to Omega restaurant in Niles, IL — moist and juicy with a hint of lemon. The recipe for my outdoor grill-roasted chicken is in my column this week.

With chunks of chicken and snips of fresh herbs from my garden, I created a salad with flavors reminiscent of that classic Greek salad I used to eat at Santa Lucia. It’s a healthful combination of vegetables and herbs, doused with extra-virgin olive oil and feta cheese. We made it a meal at our house. I know I’ll be making it meatless this summer to tote to picnics.

You won’t find any bits of olives in my salad in the photo above. I have an olive-phobic husband. I add whole, pitted kalamata olives to my plate only. What’s a Greek salad without the salty kalamatas?

Greek-Style Orzo Salad with Chicken is not Santa Lucia-style. This salad has no lettuce. But the flavors? They’re Greek to me!

Greek-Style Orzo Salad with Chicken

  • 3/4 cup uncooked orzo
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 2 chubby garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
  • 1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions
  • 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, quartered lengthwise and sliced
  • 1 cup grape tomatoes, quartered
  • 2 cups chopped cooked chicken
  • 1 (4-ounce) package crumbled feta cheese
  • Kalamata olives, pits removed, chopped

Cook orzo according to package directions.

While orzo is cooking, make dressing by combining olive oil, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper, whisking until well blended. Set aside.

Drain orzo. Rinse with cold water. Drain well. Transfer orzo to large mixing bowl. Pour some of the dressing over the orzo and toss to coat. Add chopped fresh herbs, green onions, cucumbers, tomatoes and toss. Add chicken and feta cheese and gently mix into the orzo mixture. Cover and refrigerate until serving time. Sprinkle with chopped olives.

At serving time, allow salad to warm up a bit at room temperature. Stir in more of the reserved dressing if necessary. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

  • Store remaining dressing in refrigerator.
  • One pound of cooked shrimp is a nice change from chicken.
  • Dried herbs can be used, but the flavor won’t be the same in this orzo salad. A rule of thumb when replacing fresh herbs with dried is 1 teaspoon dried to equal 1 tablespoon of fresh.

Whisk It Wednesday: Picnic Pasta Salad

On this Whisk-It Wednesday, I whisk a recipe out of my email inbox.

Every once in a while I find a recipe in my inbox, sent to me from someone who reads my weekly newspaper column. It doesn’t happen often, but when it does, I know that the recipe is a favorite of the person who sent it to me.

Before the 4th of July, a reader who lives in Arizona sent me a recipe for pasta salad. She explained it was her favorite dish to serve at a 4th of July picnic.

As soon as I read through the recipe, I knew I would try it soon. Pasta tossed together with lots of good, crunchy vegetables, some meat and a dressing that has no mayonnaise, making the salad a perfect summer traveler.

My eight-year-old granddaughter was here for a sleepover right before the 4th of July. She asked me to make some fettuccine alfredo, her favorite dish when she goes to Olive Garden or Johnny Carino’s Italian Restaurant. I cooked a whole box of penne. Some went into a couple of bowls and was topped with rich homemade alfredo sauce that we made together. The rest of the cooked pasta got scooped into a zip-top plastic bag and into the refrigerator it went.

A couple of days later, I remembered the pasta salad recipe that was in my office. it would be just the right way to use that refrigerated penne.

I went out to my little garden and snipped enough basil and Italian parsley for the dressing. That alone was exciting for me. You know what kind of gardener I am — anything I can get to grow makes me happy.

The dressing can be prepared in a food processor or blender up to a few days before actually making the salad. Store it in a large jar in the refrigerator.

The recipe calls for rotini. I’m sure the little spirals would catch all the lovely dressing with its speckles of basil and parsley. I used the leftovoer penne, all the little ridged tubes stuck tight together in the bag. It wasn’t exactly the makings of a picturesque salad, but it worked.

The one red pepper I had in the refrigerator displayed a moldy middle when I cut it open. I used some bits of yellow pepper that I had, instead. And, I just couldn’t stop myself from tripling the amount of garlic. I used 3 cloves instead of just one.

And all the delicious ingredients worked together to create a magnificent pasta salad. It’s a keeper, for sure. I’ll be making it often.

And now you can, too. How nice it is that people are willing to share recipes.

Pasta Salad

Dressing:

  • 1 cup fresh basil leaves
  • 3/4 cup fresh parsley leaves
  • 3 chubby cloves garlic
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • 2/3 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1 1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pulse basil leaves, parsley and garlic in food processor until chopped. Add mustard and vinegar and process. With processor running, add olive in a slow, steady stream. Process until dressing is well blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store in refrigerator until ready to make salad.

Salad:

  • 10 ounces rotini pasta, cooked al dente
  • 1 red pepper, diced
  • 1/2 cup red onion, diced
  • 1 green pepper, diced
  • 1 small jicama, peeled, diced
  • 2 cups cooked, chopped chicken (from 2 good-sized bone-in chicken breasts)
  • 2 cups diced salami (It takes about 1/2 pound)
  • 1 cup pine nuts, toasted
  • 2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Toss warm pasta with some of the dressing and set aside. Prepare remaining ingredients and toss everything together, except pine nuts and cheese. Add those ingredients just before serving.

 

My notes:

  • Be careful when toasting the pine nuts. They are expensive. It is terrible when they burn. I stir them in a skillet on the stove, never leaving them, until they are golden. Immediately transfer them to a glass plate to cool.

This is how I prepare chicken for salads:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Measure 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs of choice onto cutting board. Add 2 chubby cloves of garlic and mince all together.

Loosen skin on 2 bone-in chicken breasts. Spread garlic mixture under the skin, using all of the seasoning mixture.

Tuck 2 slices of fresh lemon under skin of each breast. Place breasts on foil-lined rimmed baking pan or dish. Generously drizzle each breast with olive oil. Season with black pepper. Roast for about 1/2 hour, or until chicken is done. Remove from oven and allow to rest. (I take it out of the oven when my instant read thermometer reads 155 degrees when stuck into the thickest part without hitting a bone. It will continue to cook as it rests.)