Brie pairs up with Spiced Pecans for holiday appetizer

Crunchy. Flaky. Gooey. Sweet. Tart. Salty. Delicious. And, as if that weren’t enough to get you completely hooked, I must add one more thing. Super easy.

When I spotted frozen mini fillo shells in the freezer case at the grocery store last week, visions of melted Brie studded with sweet and tart apple chunks topped with spicy pecans all in a light, flaky cup ran through my head.

Baked Stuffed Brie was still fresh in my mind, all  creamy and gooey and chewy with apples and spice and dried fruit. That recipe came from the new cookbook written by Carmela Hobbins, “Celebrations with Carmela’s Cucina.” You can read more about it and get the recipe in my column this week. Click here.

Having a few ingredients on hand during the holidays that allow you to create a delicious snack or appetizer to serve with cocktails, wine or holiday punch helps a busy cook remain joyful amidst all the hustle and bustle and stress of the season.

You’ll discover Brie cheese is covered with a paper-thin, white film. That’s mold. It’s completely edible. A friend told me yesterday she thinks the mold on Brie tastes like dirty socks. I prefer to call the flavor “earthy.” I haven’t developed an appreciation for the earthiness. I take my cheese plane to very cold Brie cheese and slice off the mold before eating.

Sweet, Salty and Spicy Pecans are an adaptation of a recipe I got from a friend last year when she brought the nuts to a holiday party. Penzey’s Black and Red Spice, a blend of ground black Tellicherry peppercorns and cayenne adds kick to the sweet, slightly caramelized pecans. Sea salt rounds out the flavors. These pecans are a wonderful surprise in a salad of fresh greens. They are a marvelous addition to a cheese and fruit platter. Don’t be afraid to set out a bowl of these pecans for guests to enjoy with cocktails or holiday punch. They are handy to have on hand all during the holiday season.

With some Brie, apples and Sweet, Salty and Spicy Pecans on hand during this season of celebrations, your days will be merry and bright.

Sweet, Salty and Spicy Baked Brie Cups

  • 4 ounces Brie cheese, well chilled
  • 1 (1.9-ounce) box frozen mini fillo shells
  • 1/2 an apple, sliced and cut into small chunks (I used honeycrisp)
  • 15 Sweet, Salty and Spicy Pecans (recipe below)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thaw fillo shells at room temperature for 10 minutes. Arrange them on a baking sheet.

Using a cheese plane or a cheese knife, remove white film from Brie and discard. Cut cheese into 30 chunks.

Place a piece of Brie in bottom of each shell. Top with an apple chunk. Place another piece of cheese over apple. Arrange a pecan half over the top of each shell.

Bake for 10 to 15 minutes in preheated 350-degree oven, until cheese melts and just begins to bubble. Remove from oven. Serve warm. Makes 15.

Sweet, Salty and Spicy Pecans

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread the pecans on a sheet pan and roast until fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir a couple of times so that they color evenly. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat, add the nuts and stir to coat. Sprinkle with the sugar and salt and cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat, until the sugar melts and starts to caramelize and coat the nuts, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat but keep stirring until the nuts begin to cook, then toss with Black and Red Spice and turn them onto a plate to finish cooling. Makes 3 cups. Store completely cooled pecans in tightly sealed jar or tin.

 

 

Pumpkin Pie? No, thank you.

A custard-like mixture of pureed pumpkin, eggs, seasonal spices, sugar and cream makes its way to the dinner table in many homes in America on Thanksgiving Day. I’ll pass on that, thank you.

It’s not the flavor of pumpkin pie that I dislike. It’s more of a texture thing for me. Stir pureed pumpkin and spices into a more substantial cheesecake and I’m all in. Add pumpkin to quick bread batter with chopped dates and chunks of pecans — I’d never pass it up.

Last week I had the opportunity to hear Twin Cities author, Nicole Mary (N.M.) Kelby, read from her recently published book, “White Truffles in Winter.” With humor and passion and a glass of wine at hand, the author brought a reckless, sensuous air into the culinary kitchen at the St. Louis Park Byerly’s store. She offered members of our Minneapolis-St.Paul Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier a peek into the great Chef Auguste Escoffier’s life as she read just enough snippets from her book to leave us hungry for more.

With help from a few members of our Les Dames group, a meal was prepared using Kelby’s recipes that she developed with inspiration from the late Escoffier (1846-1935).

A chunky and chewy wild rice salad loaded with dried fruit, fresh apples and toasted nuts started the meal. The first bite instantly awakened my senses and my taste-buds. The salad was followed by succulent bacon-wrapped and roasted chicken, each slice generously blanketed with wild mushroom sauce. Whole pumpkins, which Kelby harvested from her own garden, were baked with a bread stuffing flecked with chunks of chorizo sausage, olives and cheese. As she spooned the moist stuffing from the pumpkins, she caught a bit of creamy flesh and ever so carefully used a finger to help move the mixture to a plate.

It was the Pear Clafouti with Raspberry Grand Marnier Sauce and Creme Fraiche that made me swoon. Tiny, satisfied noises may have come from my throat as I savored each velvety bite, sweet with caramelized sugar and ripe pears.

Simple, yet elegant. Lush with flavor, yet refined in appearance. Delicate, fruity and fresh. Yes, this will be dessert at my house on Thanksgiving. And, several times throughout the holiday season.

To learn more about N.M. Kelby and “White Truffles in Winter,” you can click here to get to her web site.

Click here to get to the author’s recipe for her remarkably easy-to-make (no crust necessary) Pear Clafouti with Raspberry Grand Marnier Sauce.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Breakfast Cookies get a vegan makeover

You won’t find any butter in Noemi Aylesworth’s refrigerator. You may see a carton of soy milk on the shelf, but definitely not the kind that comes from an animal species. No cheese, either.

“If someone asks for salt when they’re eating at our house, I have to go into the bathroom to get it. We only use salt to gargle with. We never use it in the kitchen,” said Aylesworth during a recent conversation we had.

Noemi Aylesworth owns The Cabin Coffeehouse and Cafe in downtown Bemijdi, Minn. Two years ago, after reading “The China Study,” by  the father-son research team, T. Colin Campbell, Ph.D. and Thomas M. Campbell II, she made the decision to switch from her vegetarian lifestyle to a strictly plant-based diet, and made a commitment to a style of eating that promotes better health.

The book that made such an impact on Aylesworth focuses on the knowledge gained from the China Study, a 20-year partnership of Cornell University, Oxford University and the Chinese Academy of Preventive Medicine that showed high consumption of animal-based foods is associated with more chronic disease, while those who ate primarily a plant-based diet were the healthiest.

Aylesworth admits her current eating habits have changed drastically over the years. “My parents owned a cafe when I was growing up,” she said as we sat at a table in the large back room of The Cabin, surrounded by people quietly sipping their favorite lattes as they focused on their computer screens, children playing with toys and women gathered together for a late lunch. “I grew up eating French fries, pop and candy,” she said. “Becoming vegan has been a lifestyle choice. Eating a plant-based diet is best for my health. I haven’t been sick at all since I’ve chosen to eat whole foods.”

Not only can you steer clear of the sniffles when you eat a diet rich in plant-based foods, you will be surprised at the wonderful new flavors you discover. “You can actually taste the food when it doesn’t have butter all over it. Potatoes are amazing just by themselves. You can taste the potato when it’s not covered with sour cream and butter,” said Aylesworth.

Noemi Aylesworth’s vegan lifestyle has been appreciated by many of the customers who frequent The Cabin Coffeehouse and Cafe. A glass case near the counter offers several vegan sweet treats, such as chocolate chip cookies, muffins and quick breads.

“The Hungry Vegan sandwich has become a popular choice for all of our customers,” said Aylesworth. “Vegan or not.” The thick sandwich is made with avocado on multi-grain bread with lettuce, roasted red peppers, tomato, onion, cucumber, carrot, pumpkin
seeds, basil and Vegenaise, a grapeseed oil spread that is egg free, dairy
free, has no cholesterol and is a good substitute for mayonnaise.

The petite coffeehouse owner completed an eCornell class on plant-based nutrition. She’s convinced many of the health problems Americans are afflicted with can be controlled, or prevented, by rejecting animal-based and processed foods.

I asked Aylesworth what her biggest challenge has been living a vegan lifestyle for the last two years. “We rarely go out to eat anymore,” said Aylesworth. “It’s not easy finding restaurants that offer vegan choices on the menu. When we travel, we pack up our food and take it with us.”

In the Bemidji area, Aylesworth joins Vegans and Friends, who gather together the second Monday of each month for a meal at a local restaurant that prepares vegan food for the group. Vegans and Friends have discovered this is a good way to bring awareness to restaurants about the ease of preparing plant-based foods that are not only beautiful to look at, but pleasing to the palate.

Aylesworth has become efficient at giving conventional recipes a vegan makeover. Several years ago she began making Breakfast Cookies to offer her customers at The Cabin. She used a recipe I had shared in my column. When she made a commitment to eat only plant-based, whole foods, she gave the Breakfast Cookies a makeover.

Vegan-style Breakfast Cookies are still chewy and delicious, despite the fact the butter got scratched out of the recipe to make room for organic canola oil and applesauce. Two eggs in the cookie dough are unacceptable for vegans. That’s where Egg Replacer comes in. A powdered mixture made of potato starch and tapioca flour, it mimics what eggs do in a baking recipe. Organic sugar replaces the original granulated and brown sugars. Whole wheat pastry flour, made from soft wheat with no bits of bran in it, moves all-purpose and regular whole wheat flour out of the recipe.

Noemi Aylesworth is happy to contribute to the health and wellness of her customers as she introduces them to the bright, colorful, flavorful world of unprocessed, plant-based whole foods — even if it’s one Breakfast Cookie or one Hungry Vegan Sandwich at a time.

In the recipe below, you will find Aylesworth’s recipe for Vegan Breakfast Cookies. In parentheses, you will find the ingredients for the original, unveganized Breakfast Cookies. It’s your choice!

Breakfast Cookies

Vegan (Original)

  • ½ cup (1 cup) chopped dried apricots
  • ¾ cup  (¾ cup) cup dried cranberries
  • ½ cup (½ cup) orange juice
  • 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour (½ cup whole wheat flour and ½ cup all-purpose flour)
  • 1 teaspoon (1 teaspoon) baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon (1 teaspoon) salt
  • 1 teaspoon (1 teaspoon) cinnamon
  • ½ cup organic canola oil and ½ cup applesauce (1 cup butter, room temperature)
  • 1½ cups organic sugar (1 cup brown sugar and ½ cup white sugar)
  • 1 tablespoon Egg Replacer mixed with 1/4 cup warm water (2 large eggs)
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract)
  • ½ teaspoon almond extract (½ teaspon almond extract)
  • ½ cup ground flax seeds (½ cup ground flax seeds)
  • 3 cups old-fashioned oats, uncooked (3 cups oats, uncooked)
  • 1 cup wheat germ (1 cup wheat germ)
  • ¾ cup sliced almonds, toasted (¾ cup sliced almonds, toasted)

Heat orange juice and pour over dried apricots and cranberries in small bowl. Set aside.

Stir flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon together. Set aside.

In large mixing bowl, cream applesauce, oil and sugar and whipped Egg Replacer, vanilla and almond extract. Add eggs, vanilla and almond extract. Mix well. Add dried apricots and cranberries with juice that they’ve soaked in.

Stir in flour mixture. Mix well. Add ground flax seeds, oats and wheat germ. Stir to mix. Stir in almonds. Wrap the moist dough tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Drop dough by heaping tablespoon onto parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake at 350 degrees for 12 to 14 minutes or until they are golden.

Let hot cookies set on baking sheets for a few minutes before transferring to waxed paper-lined countertop or wire racks to cool. Makes 4 dozen cookies.

Tip from the cook

  • Find Egg Replacer in the natural/health food section of well-stocked supermarkets, health food stores and natural food co-ops.
  • If you’re interested in learning more about a vegan diet and would like bright, colorful and flavorful vegan recipes, check out Robin Asbell’s newest book, “The Big Vegan.” You can read more about her book and find her recipe for Sweet Potato Drop Biscuits in my column this week. Click here to get to that column.

Cookie-Crusted Pumpkin Dessert just in time for Thanksgiving

Silly words that came from car-time with my grandchildren resulted in a new cookie called Shoogie Dadders. The cookie dough is loaded with oatmeal, sweet-tart grated Haralson apple woven through and little chunks of Sugar Babies that turn to taffy in the oven. The baked cookies are sweet and chewy. They got a thumbs-up from my granddaughter who rolled the funny words “shoogie dadder” off her tongue and out of her giggling mouth.

After turning some of the third batch of dough into cookies, I got tired of baking. I covered the bowl of remaining dough and stuck it into the refrigerator. A few days later, as I was thinking of Thanksgiving, I thought about baking pumpkin-pie filling in a Shoogie Dadder crust.

I patted some of the cookie dough into a 9- x 13-inch pan, covered it with broken, toasted pecans and baked it for about 10 minutes before pouring the pumpkin filling over the top. Once baked, the filling was creamy and the crust was soft and easy to cut.

Think about some of your favorite cookies and try baking the dough with a pumpkin filling. I found that 2 cups of cookie dough was just the right amount for covering the bottom of the rectangular baking pan. If you’ll be feeding a crowd for Thanksgiving, this dessert will provide more servings than a traditional pumpkin pie. And, it’s so easy to prepare.

Next time you bake cookies, hold out a couple of cups of dough. Store it in the freezer until it’s time to bake a pumpkin dessert for the holiday season.

Cookie-Crusted Pumpkin Dessert

  • 2 cups Shoogie Dadder dough or your favorite oatmeal cookie dough
  • 2 cups toasted pecan halves
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 (15-ounce) cans pumpkin
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon allspice
  • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup half-and-half
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • Freshly whipped cream, for serving

Use fingers to press cookie dough into a lightly greased 9- x 13-inch pan, evenly covering the bottom of the pan. Break pecan halves and sprinkle evenly over the dough. Lightly press the pieces into the dough. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven for 10 minutes.

While crust bakes, use a wire whisk to beat eggs in a large mixing bowl. Whisk in brown sugar and granulated sugar. Add pumpkin and whisk to blend. Mix in spices and salt. Gently whisk in half-and-half and vanilla extract.

Remove partially baked crust from oven. Pour pumpkin filling over the crust, spreading evenly. Return to oven. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. Filling should be set. Cool. When dessert reaches room temperature, cover and refrigerate. Serve with a dollop of real whipped cream. Makes 12 servings.

Read about Shoogie Dadders, get the recipe and see pictures of them in my column this week. Click here.

Tips from the cook

  • If cookie dough is sticky, wet your fingers a little before patting the dough into the pan.
  • Toast pecan halves in a preheated 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes. Immediately transfer to a plate to cool.

Make your topping real good

Have you seen the Reddi-Wip commercial that’s been running on television? They’ve timed it to run this time of year when pumpkin pie is being jotted down on the planned menu for many Thanksgiving Day cooks. Every slice of creamy pumpkin pie needs a dollop of topping, right?

In the commercial, a woman is seated at the counter at a diner. When she orders pie, the waitress holds up a can of Reddi-Wip in one hand and a plastic tub of topping in another. “Oil or cream?” she asks.

The viewer knows very well the plastic tub represents the light-as-cotton candy whipped topping that can be found in the freezer case at all supermarkets. And, no matter what brand it is, the frozen topping is usually referred to as Cool Whip.

 

When Cool Whip was introduced to the public in 1967, my mom went nuts over the whipped cream look-alike. My mother, who grew up eating real food on a farm in Indiana, snubbed the thick liquid cream as she marched right past the cartons of thick white liquid on the shelf in the dairy case and headed straight to the freezer, tossing a couple of plastic tubs of frozen whipped topping into her grocery cart. Maybe it was the convenience that appealed to her — no bowl or beaters to wash, just pop open the plastic top and scoop out the whipped water, sweeteners and oils. I’m sure she did not know it was made of oil. I’m sure she never would have used it as the topping on her pies or the dip for fresh strawberries. I’m positive.

In 2007, Patrick Di Justo wrote a piece about Cool Whip for Wired magazine. He basically deconstructed the fluffy whipped mixture made mostly of water and, like any whipped topping, lots of air. Hydrogenated oils give the whipped topping a creamy mouth feel. Corn syrup and high fructose corn syrup make the mixture sweet. A few other ingredients that are familiar to chemists but not necessarily understood by the average consumer help extend the frozen dessert topping’s shelf life, add sweetness and creamy texture.

It’s really hard for me to call this frozen dessert topping real food. I tell people this as I pour heavy whipping cream into a chilled bowl and beat it up with an electric hand mixer equipped with chilled metal beaters during cooking demonstrations. I immediately read reactions of disbelief on some of the faces in the crowd.

The first ingredients listed on a can of Reddi-Wip are cream, water, sugar and corn syrup. But, as the television commercial makes clear, there are no hydrogenated oils in the can.

So, before I share any recipes for pumpkin desserts this year, I’m sharing an easy recipe for whipped topping that is made with real food. It’s as perfect with pumpkin pie as peanut butter is with jelly.

Whipping cream is beaten with a small amount of buttermilk and a dash of sugar. Buttermilk gives just a whisper of tang that is unexpected to the taste buds. I got the idea for adding buttermilk to whipping cream when it was served with some pancakes and fresh berries at a restaurant in Chicago where I recently had brunch.

Buttermilk Whip is wonderful with a thick slice of Caramel Apple Bundt Cake that ran in my column last week. The topping on Apple Kuchen in Disguise? Buttermilk Whip.

So, my suggestion this pumpkin-pie season is to ask your diners, “Cream or cream with buttermilk?”

Buttermilk Whip

  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk
  • 1 to 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Put all ingredients into a 4-cup glass measure. Whip until fluffy and thick.